گردآوری، ترجمه و نگارش: احسانحُسنانی
مهندس شیمی -
مترجم و پژوهشگر صنایع آرایشی بهداشتی
چکیده: امولسیفایرها یا امولسیون سازها ترکیبات دارای بخش قطبی و غیرقطبی هستند که برای اتصال فاز آبی به فاز روغنی و تشکیل امولسیون در محصولات آرایشی بهداشتی استفاده می شوند.
دسته ای از سورفکتانتها هستند که به عنوان پیوند دهنده دو فاز آبی و روغنی درکرمها کاربرد دارند و دو دسته هستند:
امولسی فایرهای روغن در آب (O/W) که باعث تشکیل امولسیون روغن در آب (روغن پراکنده شده در آب) می شوند.
امولسی فایرهای آب در روغن (W/O) که باعث تشکیل امولسیون آب در روغن (آب پراکنده شده در روغن) می شوند.
امولسی فایرهای O/W دارای HLB بالا و امولسی فایرهای W/O دارای HLB پایین هستند.
Ref: Chemistry and Technology of the Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry,
edited by S.D. Williams, W.H. Schmitt, P.14
EMULSIFIERS — Substances used to help oil and water bind together and stay in suspension. Examples: lecithin, carrageenan. (INCI dictionary)
SAPONINS (GLYCOSIDES) — Substances found in nature that foam readily in water, used as foam boosters, emulsifiers and mild cleansing agents in natural shampoos. Examples: quillaya, yucca, soapwort. Soaping agents with proper ties similar to plant glycosides can be made from coconut fatty alcohols and cornstarch glucose. Example: coconut/corn oil soap. (INCI dictionary)
ACACIA SENEGAL GUM — Gum Arabic. Herbal gum used as a thickener and emulsifier in creams and lotions, and as a hair set in styling gels and sprays. Often combined with gum tragacanth. (INCI dictionary)
ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL — A fatty alcohol derived from coco- nuts, used as an emulsion stabilizer in cosmetic products. ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE — Obtained through the condensation of arachidyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol, and glucose. Used in cosmetic products as a surfactant and emulsifier. (INCI dictionary)
CERA ALBA — Beeswax. A natural humectant, also used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and thickening agent. (INCI dictionary)
CHONDRUS CRISPUS — Carrageenan. Food-grade seaweed gum obtained from Irish moss and other red algae. A natural stabilizer, binding agent and emulsifier, high in sulfur and very nourishing to skin and scalp. Food-grade carrageenan should not be confused with degraded carrageenan, which is a known carcinogen. CHYRSANTHEMUM MORIFOLIUM — Chinese Chrysanthemum. Used in Chinese medicine for the treatment of allergic reactions and skin irritations. Known for its soothing effect on the skin and scalp. (INCI dictionary)
CYAMOPSIS TETRAGONOLOBA — Guar Gum. Extract from the guar bean, used as a thickener and emulsifier in cosmetic products. (INCI dictionary)
EGG OIL — The extract from whole eggs, rich in natural emulsifiers. An excellent emollient and humectant featured in shampoos, rinses and conditioners for dry or damaged hair. In skin care products, it improves texture and soothes and hydrates without clogging pores. (INCI dictionary)
FATTY ACID ESTERS — Waxes derived from plants or animals, which are less greasy than fatty acid extracts. Jojoba (Simondsia chinensis) and lanolin are examples of fatty acid esters. Used in absorption bases, and as emulsifiers in cosmetics. (INCI dictionary)
GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE — An emulsifier, also used in cosmetic formulations for its antimicrobial activity. (INCI dictionary)
GLYCERYL UNDECYLENATE — An emulsifier, also used in cosmetic formulations for its antimicrobial activity. Has skin-conditioning proper ties. (INCI dictionary)
HYDROLYZED CORN STARCH — Corn Syrup. Natural chelating agent added to shampoos to improve rinseability by binding to iron (from hard water) and chlorine and removing them from the hair. Also used as an emulsifier and humectant. (INCI dictionary)
ORYZA SATIVA EXTRACT — Rice Extract. Natur al che- lating agent added to shampoos to improve r inseability by binding to iron (from hard water) and chlor ine and remov- ing them from the hair. Also used as an emulsifier and hu- mectant. (INCI dictionary)
SODIUM COCOYL GLUTAMATE — Derived from coconut oil and glutamate amino acid. Acts as an emulsifier and has a protective and moisturizing effect on the skin. (INCI dictionary)
SODIUM LAUROYL LACTYLATE — The sodium salt of lactic acid, a food-grade emulsifier and mild surfactant, used as a foam- ing and cleansing agent and to give the hair a soft, silky texture. The emulsifier of choice for natural products, it offers excellent moisturizing proper ties and leaves a smooth feel after application. It penetrates the top layer of skin to offer residual moisturization, extended fragrance release and enhanced delivery of actives. (INCI dictionary)
SORBITAN SESQUIOLATE — An emollient and skin soother derived from sorbitol. Sometimes used as an emulsifier. (See also Sorbitol.) (INCI dictionary)
SORBITAN STEREATE — A surfactant derived from berries and other plant sources, composed of sorbitol, a natural sweetener, and stearic acid, a fatty acid. Used in cosmetic products as an emulsifier and wetting agent. (INCI dictionary)
STEARIC ACID — A fatty acid used as an emulsifier and thicken- ing agent. A surfactant, stearic acid helps bind soap par ticles to dir t and oil on the skin’s surface so they can be rinsed away. We use stearic acid from vegetable sources in our natural products. (INCI dictionary)
SUCROSE LAURATE — A fatty acid ester derived from sugar, used in cosmetic products as a natural emulsifier and surfactant. (INCI dictionary)
XANTHAN GUM — Polysaccharide derived from beneficial bac- teria, used as a natural stabilizer, thickener and emulsifier in cosmet- ic preparations. (INCI dictionary)